Saturday (11/15)

Saturday morning our bus was late for taking us from the Grand New Hotel to the Golden Crown Hotel for the morning session. I did get to hear most of Naim Ateek's lecture on "The Nakba and Theology." He has a new book out called A Palestinian Christian Cry for Reconciliation published by Orbis. I enjoyed hearing him very much. I did not purchase his book yet. I did buy Jean Zaru's new book, Occupied with Nonviolence: A Palestinian Woman Speaks. This is an edited compilation of articles Jean has written over the years. Jean is Clerk of Ramallah Friends Meeting and director of the International Friends Center in Ramallah. I was happy to be able to have her sign her book for me.

The afternoon was a time for workshops. For some reason I missed the first session. In the second period I attended a workshop with a presentation by a Jewish organization Gush Shalom (The Peace Bloc), which works toward peace between Jewish Israeli's and Palestinians.

In the last workshop we were supposed to see the film Sons of Eilaboun about a Palestinian village 30 km northeast of Nazareth. The residents of Eilaboun surrendered to the Israeli soldiers in 1948. Even then people were killed, everyone driven out to Lebanon, and the village was looted. The residents later appealed to return and were the only Palestinian village to have been able to return. I know this from a Sabeel booklet not from the film. Somehow the film was not available. Instead we watched a segment of the movie The Iron Wall. This was a very powerful documentary. Watching scenes of Israeli settlers beating up Palestinians or olive trees being uprooted to make way for the Israeli wall makes you feel anger against the injustice and like you've been kicked in the stomach.

I read a poll was taken in the US and only 6% of American citizens believe Israel should back Palestinians in peace talks and only 19% think peace between Israel and Palestinians should be one of President-elect Obama's top foreign policy priorities.

One of the highlights of the conference for me was a chance to hear Rashid Khalidi, Edward Said Professor of Arab Studies and Director of the Middle East Institute at Columbia University. His talk "The Nakba and Palestinian National Identity" was compelling and challenging. He had insightful comments and critique not only of the US and Israel, but also of the Palestinian leadership – or lack thereof.

Sunday (11/16)

On Sunday the conference attendees chose which church they would like to visit. I chose Greek Orthodox just because I've never attended one before and I have a great deal of interest in Eastern Orthodox theology. So I attended Cana Greek Orthodox Church with three women from the conference. I was rather lost in the liturgy. I realized later that I was lost in a more literal sense: I followed the women in and sat with them in the women's section. I admired the Byzantine style art. I had no idea what the priest was doing behind the curtain. He stood in front of the altar, walked around the altar ringing bells and swinging the incense, and then he would sort of pop out once in awhile. I'm sure it's all very meaningful to the members who know the liturgy, light candles, stand up, sit down, and cross themselves.

I didn't have anything to drink or eat during the worship service, but we were welcomed afterwards and given a little cup of wine and some Arabic coffee. They give each of us a package with two bottles of "blessed wine" from Cana. I asked the priest if he turned the water into wine. He replied, "No, only Jesus."

We went to a Palestinian Christian home for lunch. They were wonderful hosts. I enjoyed talking with them and listening to them speak Arabic with each other. Once in awhile I would get some English translation so I could keep up with the topic of conversation. We had a traditional Arab meal, all very delicious.

In the afternoon we boarded buses and made the trek back to Jerusalem. That evening we worshipped at St. George's Cathedral. One of the British Quakers I met said this was the first time he had gone to church twice in one day – not only that, in Nazareth in the morning and Jerusalem at night!

I was among the group booked into the Gloria Hotel. There's a narrow walkway that winds through the old city from the New Gate and comes by the Gloria Hotel. My room was very nice and the meals were good. I got a little tired of scrambled eggs and wienies for breakfast. For people who like fruits and veggies for breakfast there was a large selection.

Monday (11/17)

In the morning we began with seeing part two of the movie "The Land Speaks Arabic." I was very sleepy during this. I'm sure I fell asleep at different times. I just hope I didn't snore through it. It reminded me of the Seinfeld episode in which Jerry failed to pay attention during Schindler's List. Same principle, different culture.

The topic for our morning panel was "The Humanitarian Crisis in the Occupied Territories." We first heard from Ms. Allegra Pacheco, Chief of the Information and Advocacy Unit for the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA) in the occupied Palestinian territories. She packed a few hours of information into her 20 minute presentation. We also heard from Sami Mshasha, the Arabic spokesperson for UNRWA's Commissioner-General Office.

During the afternoon we had an incredible experience taking tours through the refugee camps in and around Bethlehem (Dheishe, Aida, Azza, and Aroub). I was with the group that went to Aida. We learned about the people who lived there, which villages they came from when they were displaced from the homes in Palestinian villages and how they came to live in this place. The land belonged to a woman named Aida and she allowed them to set up tents and live there. According to UN Resolution they expected to return to their homes when Israel pulled out of their occupation of Palestinian land. It didn't happen and still hasn't happened. The UN helped them build crude houses to replace their tents. Then they began to build less temporary housing. Because Israel has now built a barrier wall right up against Palestinian residences in Bethlehem, Palestinians have no room to expand, so they build up instead of building out.

We met and talked with various families. They all talk about their family members who are political prisoners. They relate how the Israeli army decided to make incursions into the neighborhoods by breaking through the walls of people's homes instead of walking through the alleyways where they might get something dropped on them. In one case a woman heard them beginning to break a hole in her wall. So she went to the door to invite them to come in instead of damaging her home. Perhaps her intentions were misunderstood, but in any case she was shot and killed. These are people who are not only passionate people, people bound together by their faith and their love of family, but they are also people with right on their side. The only just thing is for them to be returned to their homes. There can't be any argument about that. But it's all a waiting game. Meanwhile the generation of people who were displaced are dying off, the wage earners are held in Israeli prisons, the Israeli government is pushing out into Palestinian territory, and Israeli settlers are gradually taking more and more land from within the West Bank. Time is not something Palestinians have, especially as the people of Gaza continue to have the life squeezed from them.

Not only were we shown hospitality here, they also showed us their generosity by giving each of us a t-shirt representing their struggle. In turn, our group was able to give to them a banner containing art designed by school children in northern Europe (can't remember exactly where), which contained encouraging messages about peace and justice.

Later that day we all gathered at the Dheishe camp for presentations from four or five people regarding refugee rights and the church's response to the occupation. We had dinner together and then were treated to a performance by the Ibda'a Dance Troupe. They did a great job and it was fun to watch.

Tuesday (11/18)

In the morning we broke into groups and were guided to sites around West Jerusalem. One of the places we visited was the Muslim cemetery where the Supreme Court has now ruled to allow the Wiesenthal Center to build a peace center on the land. It's one of these great ironies to disturb the peace and practice injustice so you can construct a building that claims you are interested in creating peace and justice. The peace they want to create is not between Israeli Jews and Israeli Palestinians but between Ashkenazi Jews and Sephardic Jews.

Our guide then brought us to visit the house that had belonged to her father. He had been forced out and the home then sold or rented to an Israeli Jewish family. Imagine about twenty or thirty people gathered on the sidewalk and street in front of someone's home listening to a Palestinian woman tell us about the injustice. By all rights, she should be living there. While we talked, some young Jewish men came from a building down the street and investigated what was happening. In the past the police have been called, so we didn't hang around too long.

In the afternoon we got to hear Jeff Halper, the American-born, Israeli Jew who is the director of the Israeli Committee Against House Demolitions (ICAHD). His recent book is An Israeli in Palestine: Resisting Dispossession, Redeeming Israel. He had much to tell us about current issues such as the grave crisis (there aren't enough adjectives to describe how bad the situation is) in Gaza and the unbelievable action of a Palestinian family removed from their house in West Jerusalem. [Now they have even taken away this woman's tent she was living in on the property.]

After lunch the groups were split up again and taken by bus to various locations around Jerusalem. We participated in Sabeel's Contemporary Way of the Cross. For example, we went to the Bethlehem checkpoint, gathered off to the side, and followed some simple readings, prayers, and songs. Our next stop was to drive through the Har Homa settlement and then park the bus at the entrance and worship together there. At the Palestinian village of Wallaje, we stood by the road looking across the valley toward Israeli settlements and heard about the village's successful attempt to stop encroachment on their village.

You have to keep in mind that Palestinians see busload after busload of westerners drive by their villages and homes on the way to holy sites only to return back to Jerusalem. I'm sure Israeli Jews and Palestinians were both surprised to see Sabeel's people not go to the typical places but locate themselves among the Palestinians.

We had some more panel sessions in the late afternoon discussing the history, the legal aspects, the civil rights of Palestinians in Jerusalem, and the issue of residency and its restrictions for Palestinians within Israel. Our closing dinner was held at the Ambassador Hotel. Appropriately enough we heard the Ambassador of Palestine to the UK, Manuel Hassassian, a professor of International Politics and Relations and Executive Vice President of Bethlehem University.

Wednesday (11/19)

If you remember, I was given two bottles of "blessed wine." Someone had given me her bottles too, but I had wisely given them to someone else. I didn't really want to carry these bottles around with me and especially didn't want to haul them in my luggage back to the US. So I drank them. I was thirsty. They were there. After all, this was "blessed wine" from Cana. I had some just before going to bed. The next morning I noticed some pink blotch on my pillow. I looked closer trying to figure out what kind of emblem was printed on the hotel's linens. What I saw was a round, pink shape. In the center was a near perfectly shaped heart. It was a miracle! Blessed wine from Cana forms a sacred heart of Jesus in Jerusalem! That sounds better than saying I drooled like a drunken sod in the night.

Our last session for the conference was a marathon of highly capable and qualified speakers. We began with the former Prime Minister of the Netherlands, Andreas van Agt. Next we heard an inspiring and very practical message from Dr. Bernard Lafayette, a leader in the civil rights movement in the US. Then we heard from Mairead Maguire, a co-recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize in 1976 along with Betty Williams, for their work in Northern Ireland. Finally, we heard a personal message from Lily Habash, who is currently the advisor to the Bureau Chief/Cabinet Secretary General at the Office of the Prime Minister Dr. Salam Fayaad in the Palestinian National Authority.

The moderator for this session was Jonathan Kuttab. He is a powerful speaker himself and someone who, like many of those we heard in the conference, speaks not only from an academic and political position, but also from the life of faith and religious practice.

The last event in the conference was closing worship at the Church of the Redeemer. This was to be a celebration of the Eucharist, something that ecumenical conference planners think all Christians have in common. As a Quaker I wasn't really interested in the pageantry and liturgy, especially in the procession of the professional clergy.

I returned to the Gloria Hotel and then set off for an exciting afternoon walking around on my own in the old city. It started off well enough. Just a few doors down from the Gloria Hotel I discovered the restaurant I was taken to on my first visit to Jerusalem. This is right near the road leading to the Jaffa Gate. As soon as I came to that road I began to be assailed by guys wanting to be my tour guide or wanting me to come into their stores and buy souvenir crap (yes, that's strong language but I'm really tired of seeing the same souvenir crap: enough ceramics, enough olive wood, enough rugs. leave me alone). After that I don't know what happened. Some nice man started talking to me. At first it seemed like he was just going to show me the way to something. He brought me to a place where I could see the temple mount, the Dome of the Rock, the Al Aqsa Mosque, and the churches across the valley on the Mt. of Olives. He was going to just bring me to have some coffee together. Before I knew it we were sitting on a couch in a shop. After 15 minutes or so of polite conversation, the sales pitch began. It felt to me like I was paying ransom for my release by buying some rugs. Sure, I had wanted to buy some rugs. I didn't really buy exactly what I was looking for and I was not able to investigate the quality. But I purchased my release. But my guide, or should I say captor, wasn't done with me. He brought me through the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, through the Upper Room, and then to the Tomb of King David. I wasn't really asked if I wanted to wash my hands in water from a well, have a hat put on my head, or a red string tied around my wrist. I was pushed into paying about 60 shekels as a donation. I really just wanted to get away from this guy, but I didn't know how. I don't have it in me just to walk away and offend someone. Anytime I said something about what we were doing, he would act offended. Finally he led me around to the side of the wall of the old city and pointed to where I would go to get back to the Jaffa Gate. I had been thinking this guy just gets a cut from the store owner. I stupidly offered him a little money for his time. He then told me how much money he wanted. I was embarrassed by being asked for payment for something I had already received. So I paid and finally got free. I was so angry, angry at people who take advantage of others, angry with myself for not being smarter. I just wanted to leave. I couldn't help thinking of the words of Jesus about Jerusalem, "'My house shall be called a house of prayer for all the nations.' But you have made it a den of robbers."

Thursday (11/20)

I made arrangements for people from the college to pick me up at the Notre Dame center when they came to get mail and do other errands. I was able to access wireless internet at the conference center in the lobby. While there I came across Retha McCutcheon, the former General Secretary of Friends United Meeting. We were able to spend some time reflecting on our experiences of Palestine, specifically about Ramallah and the Friends School there. I was able to tell her how I was first introduced to the Palestinian situation at an FUM Triennial session when Father Elias Chacour had spoken about his work. He had attended one of the Sabeel sessions. It was one of those experiences when everything comes around full circle.

Before returning to Bethlehem, we had to stop in the Gilo settlement to use their post office. I waited outside in the courtyard. I watched as a security guard used a wand on all of the men entering the post office. She also looked in people's bags and purses. It was a different experience being in this mainly Jewish context.

I was invited to the college's faculty meeting. I think they were being courteous. They didn't realize that meetings are one of the things I've come all the way across the world to get away from. It is always fascinating to watch Palestinians talk together in Arabic. There is so much more to communication than the language itself. It's the pitch, tone, and cadence with which things are said. Then there's the facial gestures and the moving of the head. Most of all it's the gesticulation. One man in particular is like a symphony conductor. He motions and gestures with his hand continuously. Some of these gestures seem to be typical, such as the shaking of the index finger back and forth to indicate a negative idea or the wiping of the hands to represent being done with something. Then there's the quick shake of the head with the opening of the eyes to mean, "What, are you talking to me? I don't understand." I did get translated about half of what people said and I only understand half of the interpretation. I got the gist and that was about all I needed to know. The best thing? They served kanafe.

Friday (11/21)

My class went as usual. I try to cover a lot of ground and the students want me to focus on details. What they need is really the best work for us to do in class, rather than me just plowing through material.

This evening the couple across the hall invite us short-term volunteers to join them for dinner. We had a splendid time. I'm about the only American (US) volunteering at the college. The others are from  England, South Africa, and New Zealand. Rather than going back home speaking Arabic, I'm afraid I'll return home speaking a British accent. Cheers!